Thursday, 16 October 2025

October 16 - Prague

This trip has been about imaginative architecture and interesting history. From Nuremburg to Budapest there hasn't been one disappointment. Today’s city walk of Prague shows me that it won’t take a backseat to any other location on our itinerary let alone any other world class city.

Old Town Square

Prague’s history stretches back over a thousand years, beginning as a settlement in the 9th century at the crossroads of trade routes in Central Europe. The city flourished as the seat of Bohemian kings and later as the capital of the Holy Roman Empire under Charles IV in the 14th century. Charles IV proved to be a major force in the development of the city by founding Charles University and the construction important commercial landmarks such as the Charles Bridge. In the centuries that followed, Prague faced religious upheaval during the Hussite Wars between Catholics and Protestants. Then it endured Habsburg rule, which brought both cultural development and tensions caused by Czech nationalism.

During the First World War, Prague was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and its citizens experienced the hardships of war, including food shortages and political unrest. The war’s end in 1918 brought the formation of Czechoslovakia, with Prague becoming its capital and a centre of renewed national pride.

In the Second World War, Prague was occupied by Nazi Germany in 1939, leading to severe repression of Czech culture and the tragic loss of many lives, particularly among the city’s Jewish population. The city was liberated in May 1945 by the Red Army and Prague entered a new era under Soviet influence, which shaped its postwar history.

After the Second World War, Prague became the capital of Czechoslovakia under Communist rule, following a 1948 coup backed by the Soviet Union. The city experienced decades of political repression, with limited freedoms and economic hardships. The Prague Spring of 1968, a brief period of liberalization, was crushed when Warsaw Pact troops invaded and reinforced Soviet control.

Soviet Style Art

It was not until the Velvet Revolution in 1989 that Prague saw a peaceful transition to democracy, leading to the end of Communist rule. By the early 1990s, differences between the Czech and Slovak regions, rooted in historical, cultural, and economic distinctions, began to influence government policy. These divergences led to peaceful negotiations, and on 1993-01-01, Czechoslovakia was officially dissolved in what is known as the "Velvet Divorce." Two independent countries were formed. These are the Czech Republic, now known as Czechia, with Prague as its capital, and Slovakia with Bratislava as its capital. Both nations have since developed their own identities while maintaining friendly relations and cooperation within the European community.

Old Town is the historical heart of the city and one of its most iconic districts. The area is famed for its winding medieval streets, colourful Baroque buildings, and the lively Old Town Square, which is home to the world-famous Astronomical Clock and the striking Church of Our Lady before Týn. The streets are filled with Gothic towers and Renaissance apartments.

Astronomical Clock

The Astronomical Clock is one of the city’s most treasured landmarks and a remarkable feat of medieval engineering. Installed in 1410, it is the third-oldest astronomical clock in the world and the oldest one still in operation. Located on the southern wall of the Old Town Hall, the clock not only displays the time but also shows astronomical details such as the positions of the sun and moon and features an intricate calendar dial.

Every hour, crowds gather in Old Town Square to watch the clock’s animated procession of the Twelve Apostles, a charming spectacle with moving figures representing Death, Vanity, Greed, and 12 disciples. The clock’s unique blend of science, craftsmanship, and folklore has made it a symbol of Prague, attracting crowds of both locals and visitors alike.

Charles Bridge is one of Prague’s most iconic landmarks, spanning the Vltava River and connecting Old Town with Lesser Town. Commissioned by Emperor Charles IV in 1357, the bridge is renowned for its impressive Gothic towers and the stunning collection of 30 Baroque statues that line its balustrades. Walking across Charles Bridge offers spectacular views of Prague.

Charles Bridge over the Vltava River

Just beyond the remains of Old Town’s defensive walls lies Prague’s New town which was established in the 14th century by Charles IV to accommodate the city’s expansion and growing population. Only in Europe would an area that is over 600 years of age be called new. Despite this misnomer, New Town is steeped in history and features an impressive array of architectural styles, from Gothic and Baroque to Art Nouveau and modernist buildings. Wenceslas Square, the heart of New Town, has played a significant role in Czech history, serving as the site for many momentous events, including demonstrations during the Velvet Revolution of 1989. Today, New Town is a vibrant district known for its bustling boulevards, high-end shops, and nightlife. It offers a dynamic contrast to the medieval charm of Old Town in both style and content.

Charles University

The area beneath Prague Castle is known as the Lesser Town. This picturesque neighbourhood which stretches along the banks of the Vltava River seems to be an exclusive residential neighbourhood with its own restaurants and cafés scene.

Most churches in Czechoslovakia were closed by the communist government. The bell tower of St. Nicholas Church in Lesser Town was used by the communist-era secret police to spy on the U.S. Embassy in Prague.

 St. Nicholas Church 

For a city packed full of churches, it is strange that the Czech Republic has the lowest church attendance rates in all of Europe. Only 12% of people, in the recent census, declared being active Christians.

We are staying in the Cosmopolitan Hotel on the edge of Prague’s Old Town. It is a newer hotel with a classic sophisticated feel. It has solid dark wood finishes in the rooms and marble throughout the hallways. For dinner tonight we went to a swanky restaurant next door to our hotel, with the original name “Next Door Café” It was a wonderful meal, with great service and a lovely decor.



 

  








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