October 4 - First Day in Nürnberg

Nuremberg (Nürnberg) was founded around 1050, growing around a castle built by King Henry III. Franconia, the country where Nuremberg is located was a powerful kingdom, so much so he later became the Holy Roman Emperor. One hundred and fifty years later Nuremberg became a Free Imperial City, which gave it autonomy within the Holy Roman Empire. 

Its strategic location made it a major trade hub from the 13th to 16th centuries, and because of this it flourished in arts and sciences. Its medieval architecture, like the Kaiserburg, Frauenkirche, and St. Lorenz Church are still visible in what is known as the old town.

Lorenzkirche 

During the Renaissance, Nürnberg became a center the Protestant Reformation. However, the city declined after the Thirty Years’ War and was eventually absorbed into the Kingdom of Bavaria in 1806.

In what is know as the Dark Age of Nuremberg, it was used by the Nazi regime for propaganda, hosting the infamous Nuremberg Rallies and being the site where the anti Jewish Nuremberg Laws were enacted. After World War II, the city hosted the Nuremberg Trials, where Nazi leaders were prosecuted and executed for their war crimes. Today, Nuremberg is known for its efforts to preserve and confront its past and it educates visitors on the dangers of dictatorship. Maybe they should send some of these teachers to the USA.

As it was explained to us by two local residents that we met during supper tonight, Nuremberg and the region of Franconia (Franken), is culturally distinct from southern Bavaria and has its own dialects, traditions and culinary dishes.

Across the street from our hotel, there is a magnificent medieval city wall with multiple watch towers and what must have been a moat at one time. 

Old Town Wall

Within these walls is the area known as the “Old Town.” The Old Town is a mix of houses, churches, modern shopping, and restaurants. It is home to the famous Nuremberg Christmas Market, which draws in hoards of tourists every year. During the off season it is home to a large flea market.

Frauenkirche 

Vendor at the flea market

Because it was raining most of the afternoon, we waited till the early evening before we went to the Old Town for dinner. Most of the good restaurants were full, which I guess is a Saturday night tradition. We walked along the main streets for what must have been over an hour before we found a small, 200-year-old inn with a wonderful meal.

We tried to find restaurants using Google maps to direct us. Google was so confused that it was continually trying to redirect us after we followed its original directions for only a few steps. We eventually gave up on Google and used a map that the hotel had supplied us with.

St. Elizabeth Chruch